This trip was planned pretty last minute, as much as you can "plan" in times of COVID-19. It didn't take much convincing when the opportunity came up to finally travel again after eight months. If I'm being honest I had no idea what to expect before coming to Puerto Rico. It is almost too close to Miami, so it never caught my attention to explore. I've always tried to travel as far as possible when the opportunity arose. Due to COVID-19 and all of the travel restrictions, it became more and more complicated to organize a trip. One of our friends has been coming here for a few years and suggested it. It is a perfect destination if you are here on a visa or are waiting to get your green card since you're not leaving the country. Though it is technically part of the United States, rest assured it is in many ways its very own country.
Before Traveling to PR
Before making your way to Puerto Rico be sure to check the official government websites with the latest updates on what is required before entering the island. At the end of October 2020 the following was required:
1. A negative PCR COVID-19 test is required within 72 hours prior to arrival on the island
2. After completing the COVID-19 test you are required to fill out a declaration, you can do it at the airport but I recommend doing it at home https://www.travelsafe.pr.gov
Things to Keep in Mind
During COVID-19
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There is a curfew from 10:00 PM - 5:00 AM, no restaurants will be open after that time
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Masks are mandatory on the streets, restaurants, and other public areas
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There is no parking in the old city (Viejo San Juan), transpiration can be difficult. Uber exists but due to COVID there is limitations on how many people can be in each vehicle (usually a maximum of 3)
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Clubs and bars are closed
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US dollars are used here
9 Days in Puerto Rico
SAN JUAN
Days 1-3
I need you to imagine your favorite colors, now paint them on the outside of several colonial buildings in no particular order whatsoever. Old San Juan is a dream. While there are a few nice places to stay in Puerto Rico's capital, we stayed in Old San Juan, and I wouldn't recommend it any other way. The city is beautiful and safe, and close to a lot of the main sites (i.e. the fort). A perfect combination of colonial Spain and lively Caribbean. There is no doubt you'll enjoy waking up in this Caribbean wonderland.
We did a "Work From Home" during the pandemic. Below I'm placing a great Airbnb option if you are 4-5 people. It's really comfortable if you're all working remotely, there are plenty of places to sit and work with reliable internet. Also, it's very central if part of your group wants to escape in the middle of the work day.
STAY
Now if you are more of a hotel person, this stunning hotel used to be home to Ponce de Leon's granddaughter, then became into a convent for nuns, before being transformed into a series of several different roles, finally becoming this beautiful boutique hotel in the middle of Old San Juan.
If you are looking for a modern and chic hotel, OLV located in Condado is your place. The stunning contemporary decor and rooms are complimented wonderfully with the rooftop restaurant that is a hotspot in the city amongst both locals and tourists.
Your first morning should consist of you waking up to the vibrant streets of Old San Juan. Grab your coffee and take a long walk from Castillo San Felipe del Morro to Castillo San Cristobal. You will enjoy beautiful green open fields where kids are flying their kites and friends are joining together.
Along this scenic walk you will pass the famous neighborhood of La Perla, famous as being home to some of the world's best Reggetoneros, and where videos like Despascito were filmed. Be sure to go down and check it out; however, do not plan on going or staying there after sunset.
DAY 1
Once you've ticked a few things off the "touristy" list of things to do, it's time for brunch. Make your way to the neighborhood of Condado to enjoy brunch at Sabrina. This little restaurant not only has delicious food and cocktails, but they are happy to get the party started, even if it's just for your table - which let's be real, in times of COVID is wonderful in itself.
It's likely that you feel like a bit of a local in the Old Town at this point, it's not that big at the end of the day. This morning sneak off and grab a coffee at St. Germain, don't miss out on their local pastries - they're amazing! There are several scenic walks and boutiques to check out. Once you've found yourself enchanted by the town it's time for the beach. Ocean Park in Condado is a favorite among locals, it will likely be a long afternoon or evening I would recommend bringing some food and drinks.
If you are a kiteboarder this place is paradise, there is a kite school that allows for rentals. We had a great experience with the locals, they invited us to join them and we had drinks together, they were equipped with tiki lamps and drums creating an experience you would only expect in a movie.
DAY 2
If you're able to make your way back to the Old San Juan for something else to eat, T-Tuan has beautiful views and live music. While I don't think the food is the best we ate on the trip, the experience was very pleasant. If you're very hungry I would skip this one tonight, but to just share some appetizers it's perfect.
On our trip, today was a work remotely day. However, if you find yourself with some extra time on your hands before finishing work, we went on a run - more of a walk for some of us...along the water before grabbing a gelato at Anitas.
Celebrate your last evening in the city on the rooftop at the OLV, with views over the city, make a reservation before going. This is more of a "bougie" night out, I personally loved dressing up a bit more on my last night. If you would prefer to stay in Old San Juan check out La Factoria, an unpretentious speak-easy with several bars inside and charismatic atmosphere.
DAY 3
El Yunque
Days 4-7
Upon arrival to Puerto Rico, the only place we hadn't booked our nights in was El Yunque. El Yunque is the rainforest region on the east side of the island. While we found a few Airbnbs, we opted for a hotel for this part of the trip. I came across a few tree houses that looked incredible, but seeing as we were working from home we needed strong Wi-Fi, most of these places had no internet at all.
I had stumbled upon Hacienda Siesta Alegre and fell in love with it. After calling them to make sure we were good to go regarding working remotely, we booked over the phone. This charming Hacienda has beautiful horse stables - yes, you can go horseback riding, lush rainforest with pops of bougainvillea. It's known for hosting weddings, it didn't take long to see why.
STAY
The breakfast here is included in the rate and it is outstanding. There was a wide spread of fruit, bread, eggs, smoothies, coffee, etc. brought directly to the table. The one downside is there is no restaurant onsite that serves lunch or dinner, but there is a supermarket just 5 minutes away and the owners had no problem allowing us to use the kitchen to cook. The dining area is equipped with a pool table as well as a little fireplace where we enjoyed some wine around the table.
If you are looking for a romantic getaway or a good place to work from home in a peaceful environment, you can't miss this place.
Our day four consisted of working from home, then picking up the rental car to head east for the remainder of our trip. When you are outside of the city, a car is needed to get around, few things are walking distance. There are taxis and Ubers that are safe and reliable, however they are not cheap and in times of COVID we chose to have our own transportation. Sixt car rental by the airport in San Juan was easy and quick.
After checking into the hotel, we were recommended a local place La Parilla which was good, however, the area where the restaurant consists of lots of restaurants, our favorite was Terruño.
DAY 4
Going to sleep in the middle of the rainforest consist of an orchestra of animals communicating in harmony with each other. Waking up is just as indescribable. The pure air and lush vegetation transports you to a tranquil oasis that is extremely welcomed, especially today. Still as one of our "work from home days", I can safely say I have never enjoyed working so much. The environment is relaxing, listening to all of the birds sing and the intense rainforest microclimate changing from sunny to stormy and back again, all within the same hour was exceptionally soothing.
In the evening we grabbed dinner on the road before heading over to kayak in the bioluminescent plankton bay. This experience was recommended by several different books and blogs, so we did it! I have to say, it was really beautiful seeing the plankton light up, but there are a few pointers you need to know about before going.
DAY 5
Firstly, most tours we found were around $50 per person. They talk about going out rain or shine, honestly rain is probably better because the clouds provide a darker sky and you will be able to see the plankton more. The guide told us that when it rains you can see the plankton light up as the rain hits the water. More crucial than the weather is the lunar cycle. We went on almost a full moon thinking it would be a great time, wrong - the light of the moon causes too much light on the water making it really difficult to see the plankton. The guides bring a tarp so you can see the plankton light up, but it's not ideal. If you're there on a new moon it's you absolutely must go!
We went with Eco Adventures, wear dark shorts - the kayaks can have mud that may stain light clothing. Wear a bathing suit and bring along a rain jacket just in case.
Today, after enjoying another epic and satisfying breakfast we started getting ready for our hike - make sure to eat a good breakfast. Our friend, who is an adopted Puerto Rican local, had told us that we would be hiking the highest peak in El Yunque, El Toro. He told us that it would be muddy, sneakers are a must, hiking boots are not required, and if you have long pants and a long sleeve shirt you're in good shape. Bugs weren't a problem on the hike, but I would always bring some repellent just in case. You will get dirty, and the sooner you accept that, the more you will enjoy the hike.
Arriving to the entrance of the park you need to get onto the Road 186 and at kilometer 10.8 you'll see the entrance sign. It says the hike is "Very Difficult", as someone who lives in a flat city and hikes once a year (at most), it was not "very difficult". It was intermediate to challenging. Having said that, if you have an injury it is not a comfortable walk by any means.
DAY 6
I highly recommend this hike, depending on your pace it's about 3.5-5 hours and 6 miles total. We didn't run into any snakes or bugs, but because of the microclimate up the mountain, you can expect the weather to change on you at some point. We went from a sunny day at the start of the trail to lots of rain and thunder towards the peak. The same way up is the same way down, so you won't be running into any surprises there. My only real piece of advice for you is - accept the fact that you will get muddy and dirty, especially if it has been raining or it will rain. As soon as you stop trying to keep your shoes clean you will enjoy it much more. Bring a towel and change of clothes in the car - believe me! Happy hiking!
Culebra
Days 7-9
Culebra, basically the definition of paradise, is just off the east coast of the main island of Puerto Rico. Unlike it's close neighbors like the US Virgin Islands or Saint Barths, is not anywhere near as developed in terms of hotels.
We stayed in an Airbnb. It came with a dock which was perfect since we came across on our own boat (not the ferry). It was a few stories up but the view of the water and the island was perfect. We were a group of 5 people and it was extremely comfortable, another 3-4 people could have stayed comfortably if you are looking to go with a bigger group. It has a good dining table and stove (no oven), which proved to be very useful since there aren't that many places to eat on the island - especially during COVID.
STAY
There are three different ways of getting to this island: ferry, boat, and plane. The flight is most expensive option, but it gets you there in ten minutes. If there is a choppy sea it is a good option for anyone who is scared of waves or the crossing. The ferry is a good option, it leaves from Ceiba and costs $2 per person. Our friend who is an adopted Boriqua has a local friend that joined us with his boat. Unfortunately, the crossing was extremely rough the day we went out, with waves between 8-12 feet, these are NOT the normal conditions. Normally the boat ride is a short 40 minute crossing, in which you will pass spectacular islands on route.
DAY 7
Culebra has a little market for some essential foods but you should do a supermarket run in Fajardo, or whichever city you depart from. There was not a large range of meat or fresh fruit and salad on the island. While there are a few restaurants to choose from, it is very limited.
Before arriving at the dock for our Airbnb, we anchored at a beach called Luis Peña. It was absolutely stunning, there few people there. If you have the chance to go during the week, you should find it quite empty. We walked across the lava rocks to do some mini cliff jumping, you have to look for an opening in the coral and rocks but we found some at low tide.
Finally it was time to pack up and sail to the bay where we docked and checked in to our Airbnb. Dinner that night was at a little local restaurant, Caracoles, just a short fifteen minute walk from our apartment.
On our last full day in Puerto Rico we were hoping to go to Culebrita, a small island next to Culebra, but because of the weather conditions it was too dangerous to cross over. So instead we rented a golf cart and explored the island. Most of the day was spent at the famous Flamenco Beach, considered one of the top ten beaches in the world, and rightfully so. This breathtaking coast is magical and deserves all the praise it receives. There are no restaurants along the beach, so be sure to bring your own food and drinks.
Once the mosquitos come out to attack, no amount of bug spray will save you, it was time to hop back into the golf cart and drive around the island, arriving home to our farewell barbecue before going out on the boat under the full moon and blanket of stars.
DAY 8
Last day, the blues always creep in. From Culebra back to Miami there were a lot of travel segments we had to go through. There was time for one last island hop before arriving in Fajardo, and driving back to San Juan to drop off the car and catch our flight, including time for one last Mofongo - obviously.
DAY 9
